Forager's Delight

Foraging in Elysian Park

Artists are often ahead of the curve when it comes to participating in and setting trends, and it is no different in respect to urban foraging. For the National Pavilion of Belgium at the 2009

Photo courtesy NTU Singapore

Venice Art Biennale, the artist Jef Geys presented Quadra Medicinale, a project for which he called upon four acquaintances in various cities and asked them each to forage 12 weeds within a mile of their homes, dry them, attach them to paper, identify them, and conduct and record ethnobotanical research into their potential usage, for example, Geys wrote, “What can a homeless person who has a toothache, for example, chew on to ease the pain, and to eventually cure the problem?” Kempens Informatieblad – Venetië (Geys, 2009). Geys’ pavilion was a practical and aromantic interrogation of the boundaries of contemporary art while also functioning as a socially conscious guide, of sorts.

Ethnobotany is not a new practice by any means. Since before recorded time, humans have been testing, using, and passing on knowledge of the plants that surround them. In North America, Indigenous peoples have documented over 1,600 species of plants for use as food alone, and many more for use as medicine, shelter, clothing, etc. (United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, n.d.). Ethnobotany is the practice which makes urban foraging, the collection of wild food in an urban setting, possible. In the United States, the knowledge amassed by Indigenous Americans, ethnobotanists and other scientists, immigrants, folk wisdom, and hobby foragers, is vast and comprehensive.

With the advent of social media, the dissemination ethnobotanical and culinary information on foraged edible plants has spawned a niche corner of the internet filled with creators like Alexis Nikole, aka @blackforager on Instagram, Colleen Codekas, aka @growforagecookferment, @foragingandfeasting, @learningherbs, and many more, with some accounts having up to a quarter of a million followers. It’s as if Jef Geys’ Quadra Medicinale lives on within the digital sphere as these creators document their local edible flora. People are also connecting beyond Instagram on apps like iNaturalist, a crowdsourced app created as a joint initiative between the California Academy of Sciences and National Geographic, where users post their observations of local flora and discuss the plant’s identity with other users.

Clearly, the foraging space, which has some crossover with the herbalism and gardening spaces, is of peak interest to a large population, despite living in the age of food delivery services, meal prep services, fast food, and meal replacement drinks and bars.

In 2020, life as we knew it came to a grinding halt. Many of us had the privilege of working from home, many of us lost our jobs, and many of us bravely continued working essential jobs. In general, a trend toward the “local” emerged. Rather than looking forward to traveling, whether it be across town or across the world, we looked forward instead to our daily walks around the neighborhood. My partner and I developed a profound appreciation of Elysian Park, just minutes from our home. We became keenly aware of its weeds, flowers, and trees and how they changed with the seasons and this is what sparked my interest in edible wild foods. Foraging local edibles is an intimate practice, sensual, even. Just as Geys’ Quadra Medicinale investigates the boundaries of art, urban foraging investigates the boundaries of food, and what society deems acceptable as such.

Here’s some practical information on foraging and related initiatives:

In 2015, researchers at the UC Berkeley Food Institute formed Berkeley Open Source Food (BOSF), which studies the sustainability, nutrition, and social welfare aspects of urban foraging. Their aim is to investigate wild food as a supplemental food source in food deserts, or communities which lack access to healthy, affordable foods. According to BOSF, they believe that, “wild and feral foods can improve nutrition, expand diets, excite palates, save water, reduce waste, increase food security, increase farm biodiversity, and increase farm revenue.” Social and nutritional viability are both considered. BOSF is not the only initiative asserting urban foraging as a sustainable practice. Food Forward, a non-profit organization based in Southern California, supplies people facing food insecurity with surplus fruits and vegetables across eight counties. In particular, their Backyard Harvest program, “conducts volunteer-powered harvests of surplus fruit on hundreds of private properties, public parks, orchards, and farms throughout Los Angeles and Ventura counties.” (Food Forward Inc.).

Urban foraging is a complex process, both mentally and logistically. For many, there is a certain ick factor to plucking weeds from an urban environment and taking them home to eat. It’s a hump one needs to get over! One also needs to be reasonably conscious of pollutants and contaminants by avoiding hazardous industrial areas, avoiding edibles along old houses and walls (which were often painted with lead paint), and foraging a safe distance from high traffic areas such as highways and busy intersections. While the thought of ingesting toxins can be daunting, it’s important to note that ingesting contaminants usually occurs when plants are not washed properly, i.e. they are present on soil or dust on top of the plant rather than within it. In a 2018 study titled, “Open Source Food: Nutrition, Toxicology, and the Availability of Wild Edible Greens in the East Bay,” conducted by BOSF, it was found that nearly all edibles harvested from high traffic, polluted, urban areas and rinsed in cold water were not only nutritionally superior to supermarket kale, but also tested well below the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s tolerable levels of contaminants/ toxins. There were also no detectable pesticides found. Remember to spread out your harvesting over different plants to avoid damaging or killing the plants. Lastly, there are legal barriers to consider when foraging; Avoid Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), reserves, state colleges, and private residential property (unless given permission).

A list of the local edibles within a mile of my home in Echo Park:

Mallow (cheeseweed): Cheeseweed is a superfood. It is rich in chlorophyll, calcium, fiber, iron, magnesium, pectin, potassium, selenium, and vitamins A and C. It’s leaves, shoots, and roots are anti-inflammatory and contain antioxidants. (Kent, 2020, 44)

Citrus flowers: Citrus flowers have been eaten for centuries. They are said to have a calming effect. The flowers most commonly eaten are those of orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit, and kumquat. (Kent, 2020, 151)

Sow thistle: Because of its abundance, sow thistle is a staple of foraging in Southern California. It is not a superfood, but it does have beneficial amounts of minerals, vitamin C, and fiber. The root, like dandelion, can be roasted and used to make tea. (Kent, 2020, 89)

Mustard: Mustard is a superfood. It is very high in fiber and vitamins A, C, and K. It’s also high in calcium, folate, iron, manganese, potassium, and vitamins B6 and E. It has some fatty acids, protein, and phosphorus. It helps reduce inflammation, promotes liver health, lowers cholesterol, and aids in bone building. (Kent, 2020, 55)

Prickly pear: Pads are high in calcium, fiber, potassium, and vitamins A and C, and have antioxidant properties. The mucus-like sap can be used to treat skin ailments, such as sunburn. (Kent, 2020, 59)

Oxalis (Sourgrass): Sourgrass is high in vitamin C and also contains vitamin A. It is high in oxalic acid, which tastes sour (and is toxic in high doses), and is best if mixed with the more alkaline greens, such as mustard and purslane. This plant is great at quenching thirst and addas a lemony punch to salads and drinks. (Kent, 2020, 203)

Peruvian pink peppercorns (Schinus molle): The bright pink fruits of Schinus molle are often sold as "pink peppercorns" although S. molle is unrelated to true pepper. The word molle in Schinus molle comes from mulli, the Quecha word for the tree. After drying and roasting, pink peppercorns can be used as normal black pepper. In traditional medicine, S. molle was used in treating a variety of wounds and infections due to its antibacterial and antiseptic properties. It has also been used as an antidepressant and diuretic, and for toothache, rheumatism and menstrual disorders, with recent studies in mice providing possible support for its antidepressant effects. (Wikipedia, n.d.)

Sweet fennel: Fennel is considered a superfood. It is an excellent source of vitamin C. It is a very good source of copper, fiber, folate, manganese, phosphorus, and potassium. It’s fibrous nature has benefits for the digestive system and can help alleviate stomach upset. (Kent, 2020, 49)

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Bibliography

Food Forward Inc. (n.d.). https://foodforward.org/what-we-do/food-recovery/

Geys, J. (2009). Kempens Informatieblad, (Venetië).

Kent, D. (2020). Foraging Southern California: 118 Nutritious, Tasty, and Abundant Foods. Adventure Publications.

United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. (n.d.). Ethnobotany. https://www.fs.usda.gov/. https://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/ethnobotany/

Wikipedia. (n.d.). Schinus molle. Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schinus_molle#cite_note-Ethnopharmacology-13